The Great Indian U-turn – a Bike Adventure
A bike trip across South India. They covered an incredible 1,757 km on bike in just four days. Here’s how they did it…
This travel tale is an account of a spectacular journey dipped in intense emotions and cherished moments, that we began on September 29, 2007. We decided to explore the southern part of the country on bike. This trip was about exploring the explored and telling the world that there is more to life than 9 to 5. Since school, I’ve wanted to travel the maxima (specifically, Leh) and minima (Kanyakumari) of the curve on the political map of India.
It was 6.30 in the morning and we (Piyush, myself and Piyush’s 180cc Pulsar) were all geared up. We began our first leg of the journey towards Salem at 7 am. The roads were super smooth. We broke our fast en-route to Salem at Krishnagiri. As time crawled, the mercury gradually began to rise. We reached Salem at 11.30, quenched our thirst at a quick pit stop and continued our journey towards Trichy, the first major city we touched that afternoon at 1.45 pm.
The sheer abrupt rise of the Rock Fort Temple was a thrill in itself, but the actual attraction was Ganesha’s temple, at the summit. We then drove on to the SriRanganathaswamy Temple at Srirangam, which is considered the biggest functioning Hindu temple in the world. The gopuram (entrance tower) of the temple is called the Rajagopuram and is 236 feet (72 m), the tallest in Asia. Myth has it that you can see the coast of Sri Lanka from the top of the gopuram. The temple is constituted by seven enclosures, with gopurams marking the axial path.
Later in the day, we grabbed a quick snack of vegetable vadas and onion bajjis, which Piyush relished very much.
We resumed our journey towards our next big destination – Madurai…
We left at 7.30 pm in the evening and entered a difficult part of the journey. The roads, no, the path was wide enough for just one big vehicle, and there were more pot-holes in a single kilometer than we encountered from Bangalore to Trichy!
To make things worse, it was raining cats and dogs. At around 10.30 pm, we arrived at the city of Madurai, home to several temples and a bustling bazaar scene. We were a little dazed from all the traveling and decided to treat ourselves to dinner and a good night’s rest in a mid-range hotel.
We woke up at 7 am and decided to visit the Sri Meenakshi Temple. We could see the temple gopurams from our hotel and in between buildings as we drove. It has several towers, all painted in vibrant rainbow colors: the outer four towers were particularly tall and literally had thousands of sculptures of Hindu deities bathed in sunlight. Inside, the temple was more covered, with dark, incense-filled rooms. We saw an elephant with a floral design painted on its face and ears. It took us a few minutes to realize it was blessing the pilgrims that crowded around it. We also asked for its blessings for our onward journey.
At around 11, we moved on to our biggest destination. The road to Kanyakumari was excellent which made the 235-km stretch seem much shorter and more comfortable.
It was a terrific feeling as we approached Kanyakumari from Madurai…
A dilapidated gate read “Welcome to Kanyakumari.” That was it! 2 km on, we hit the stimulating sight of the confluence of three waters: the Indian Ocean, Bay of Bengal and Arabian Sea.
The Gandhi Madipum, Tiruvalluvar Statue and Vivekanda Rock form the ultimate join-the-dots panaroma on the southernmost tip of mainland India. We felt blessed to be there and thanked God for protecting us from the many dangers that could have come to our way. For that moment, we (along with our Pulsar) and the spectacular three waters, were one. The only thing that we will always regret is that we did not witness the splendid sunset, that this southernmost tip is famed for. We spent the rest of the night in a hotel as we had to catch up on some sleep to prepare for the Great Indian U – Turn! We left for Kovalam in Kerala at 7.30 am the next day. The road from Kanyakumari to Kovalam was very good, with exotic beaches running on one side and beautiful water lilies and miniature lakes on the other. Though single lane most of the time, we had no problem comfortably cruising at 80 kmph. We reached Kovalam at 10 am.
Kovalam beach is popular for its clean waters. We saw two beaches, Hawah Beach at the northern end, and Lighthouse Beach to the south. The two beaches join seamlessly. It was very calm, with only the roar of the waves breaking the silence every now and then. Everywhere we looked there were coconut trees swaying in the wind.
We stopped for a snack break at a resort before we wound our way towards Trivandrum at 12.30 pm.
On the way, we witnessed the famous Kerala backwaters running adjacent to the road.
We bypassed Trivandrum and the same evening, reached Alleppey, the Venice of Kerala from where most houseboats trips around the network of backwaters originate.
These are magnificent floating palaces that give the best hotels a run for their money. Just a day onboard will enchant you, regardless of whether you’re a 10 year old kid or a couple on a honeymoon.
Unfortunately due to cloudy weather, we missed the sunset yet again. We ate on Allepey beach and left for cochin at 8 pm, reaching at Cochin at 10.30 pm. Co-incidentally, the India-Australia match was scheduled for the next day, because of which most of the hotels were fully booked.
We eventually checked into a very nice but expensive guest house. The next day, we left early at 5.30 am, because we did not want to miss the Niagara of India… the Athripally (Thrissur) waterfall. We made it to the falls by 7.30 am.
Athirappally Falls is a beautiful 80 ft cascade on the Chalakkudy River in central Kerala. The Vazhachal falls is about 4 km upstream from Athirappally Falls. After entering the park, we walked about 100 meters to get to the entrance of the river. From there, we took a sloping road to the falls. If you are adventurous you can take short cuts straight to the bottom. Half way through this slope, we started getting glimpses of the beautiful falls. It felt great when water droplets splashed on our face.
The other attraction was Vazhachal Falls. Located upstream near a dense forest, it also provided a breath-taking view.
It was time to move on after breakfast. And do we need to say that we had to eat the masala dosa 90% of the time because everything was flavored with coconut oil, irrespective of whether it was kadhai paneer or chhole bhature. But seriously, we enjoyed it.
At 12.30 pm, we left for Coimbatore. I would specifically like to mention the road from Athiripally to Pallakad, which was a biker’s nightmare. En-route, we saw many posters of superstars from the Southern film industry, and stopped for banana chips, prepared freshly right in front of us.
The highway from Coimbatore though was a biker’s delight. 25 km in 15 minutes. I guess the numbers say it all…
We stopped for lunch on the way and noticed that the bike was punctured, but as God had it all taken care of, we saw a puncture shop right in front of us. After the repair, we zoomed towards Salem, reaching by 7.30 pm. A quick tea on the outskirts and there it was, the final leg of our adventure. The non-stop race back home, sweet home. Apprehensive that something might go wrong at the last minute, and enthusiastic about getting back home, we finally touched base at 11.30 pm (Nothing did go wrong!)
Four days, 1,757 km – the Great Indian U-turn. The very thought of it filled us with pride and joy.
We don’t know how and why the phrase “unity in diversity” originated, but one thing is for sure, it must have been coined with India in mind. Travel a few 100 km in India and you’ll have a totally different perspective of life; different food, different clothes, different faces, different colors, everything different.


